What is Duffel?

DUFFEL is a relatively heavy type of fabric made of 100% wool, which is traditionally woven in a so-called X-twill (X-twill weave). The ECOLOGICAL TEXTILES duffel is made of organic wool that comes from organic sheep farming or wool that is 'unmulesed'. The origin of this wool is usually Patagonia (Argentina, Chile). Further processing (washing, dyeing, spinning, weaving, finishing) took place in Europe, in case of the organic wool in accordance with the guidelines of GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). The fabrics are also certified as such.

This DUFFEL is produced in uni colours as well as melange colours. The raw wool is then dyed in different colors (fiber dyeing) after which the colours are mixed in a predetermined ratio. Only then is the wool spun and then woven. The process of fiber dyeing allows beautiful melange effects but also allows the dye to penetrate deeper into the fiber than would be the case with yarn dyeing or piece dyeing (of already woven cloth). It also means that the fabrics achieve a higher colour and light fastness.

After weaving, the fabric is lightly filled, making it more compact, warmer and heavier. The fulling also increases the natural water and dirt repellency that characterises wool anyway.

This form of cloth production has existed in present-day Belgium since the late Middle Ages. In Dutch these heavy woolen fabrics were called 'laken'. DUFFEL refers directly to the Belgian town of the same name, where the cloth industry (as in many other cities in the Southern Netherlands) flourished from the fifteenth century. At that time it was customary to name the cloth after its place of origin, among other things to guarantee the origin and authenticity for buyers. Often a lead label was attached to the fabric with the city arms on it.

It is not entirely clear how the classic DUFFEL differed from other sheets produced in this period and in this region. What is clear is that these fabrics were already being traded over considerable distances and were more than a local product.

Nowadays DUFFEL is best known for the overcoats and jackets that are made from it. The natural water and dirt repellency are ideal for this application, but also for bags, for example.

In Flemish there is also the verb 'to induffelen', which is derived from this substance and means something like dressing yourself warmly.

View sample sets