Less microplastics, more hemp and linen

Investment is needed in setting up production chains for natural textiles! That is one of the conclusions in a recent report by the Bioeconomy Knowledge Centre, an initiative of the European Commission. Hemp and flax, as well as nettle and wool, have promising potential because of their low ecological footprint, versatile applicability and because they fit well into European ecosystems. According to the study entitled ‘Bio-based textiles in a sustainable and circular bioeconomy’, it is important to build a European infrastructure for processing these textile fibres.

The importance of the textile sector for a European circular economy was already underlined in the EU Industrial Strategy in 2020. The new report further emphasises the importance of natural fibres that fit into European ecosystems. Hemp and flax are particularly interesting because they can be well grown in large parts of Europe and are also well suited as rotation crops that contribute to biodiversity and healthier soils. Hemp cultivation, for example, could go hand in hand with cereal production while the so-called hemp shives, woody parts not suitable for textiles, can be used in horticulture, for example as a substitute for peat.

Cotton is also a valuable fibre but is less relevant to Europe because cultivation here is necessarily limited to a relatively small area, notably Greece and, to a lesser extent, southern Spain and southern Italy. It is assumed that the EU will remain dependent on imports as far as cotton is concerned.

Historically, linen (flax) and hemp together with wool were Europe's main textile fibres, with many spinning and weaving mills. Today, clothing and other textiles are largely made from synthetic fibres, actually oil derivatives. Making textiles from natural fibres requires a long, complex and expensive process that is often done outside Europe. The aim is to bring this production back and then put it on an environmentally friendly and circular basis.

The study also indicates the challenges to be tackled to achieve this. Certain links in the production chain are hardly present anymore, so the volume produced is low. For bast fibres, the report cites degumming and spinning as major challenges, with regard to wool the focus should be on building a European infrastructure for its collection and processing.
‘Once this logistics system is restored, production capacity can also grow. There is no lack of the necessary expertise and knowledge.’